[04TH OCTOBER 2024]
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I can't believe a decade has passed... a whole decade! On this date 10 years ago I decided to head off on my third ever adventure into the wilderness but for the first time solo and it was the best decision i'd ever made. Nerve wrecking, absolutely, but what an experience. The weather wasn't the best but the smell of the fresh air and the views more than made up for that. What wasn't so great was the tent I took up there. I "upgraded" to the Vango Blade one man tent from a Tesco 2 man bright blue blob and let me tell you... I think the blob would've fared much better. I mean, when I was putting the Blade up it almost blew away... which in hindsight would've been a blessing as it spent most of the night pressing against my face! Still, the sleepless night didn't detract any from this adventure and now i'm off once more to relive this, one of my most iconic adventures to date.
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Unlike last time I hadn't stayed up late drinking with a work college, and unlike last time I hadn't set off late umming and arring, packing and repacking and trying to ignore that voice in my head saying "What the hell are you about to do!?! ARE YOU MAD!". This time my gear was packed and ready to go in the boot the night before. All I had to do was jump in the car and head north. Thankfully the roads were nice and quiet and I arrived in Coniston at 11:30. This trip was nothing like last time. This time I can really explore.
I put on my boots, grabbed my pack and head off up Station Road past the infamous Sun hotel and began the absolute slog up towards Walna Scar. When I say slog it's incredibly steep and when you've got a pack full of winter gear on, it's all the more challenging. It's moments like this where i'm panting like i'm giving birth I ask why i'm doing what i'm doing but once the ascent was done and the road levelled out I was rewarded with some beautiful scenery and the first sight of my home for the night... all 803 meters of it. The slight breeze was welcome here and before I knew it I was on Walna Scar.
I put on my boots, grabbed my pack and head off up Station Road past the infamous Sun hotel and began the absolute slog up towards Walna Scar. When I say slog it's incredibly steep and when you've got a pack full of winter gear on, it's all the more challenging. It's moments like this where i'm panting like i'm giving birth I ask why i'm doing what i'm doing but once the ascent was done and the road levelled out I was rewarded with some beautiful scenery and the first sight of my home for the night... all 803 meters of it. The slight breeze was welcome here and before I knew it I was on Walna Scar.
Here I was met with just the wind blowing through the grass, the smell of the fresh air and two blokes repeatedly shouting "WOOO" in a high pitched tone. At first I thought "They're having fun" whilst also thinking "shut up" and that's putting it mildly. After a couple of minutes I realised they were herding sheep down from the fells and before I knew it they were crossing the track right in front of me. It's incredible the control farmers have over their flock just by commands to both them and the dogs. Very much an unsung talent and skill. After I passed the Old Man I take an unassuming track on the right and begin hiking up to the abandoned Slate and Copper Mine, both of which the area is renowned for since as early as the 12th century. There's no track up to this point, just head for the piles of leftover slate and derelict buildings.
It's incredible how much is still standing. Don't get me wrong I did just use the word "derelict" but not only can you see where every building was and indeed walk into them, but there was also a rail for the mine carts still on the ground, part of a tunnel those carts would've run through and two huge chasms where at one time the caves would've been but have since been blown up. It would be great to spend longer here as I noticed there was a small cave to the top right of the slate pile on the second chasm... what's in there?!?! One day i'll have to go and look. I reluctantly head back down to the track and continue on towards Goats Water, the very first tarn I ever saw and wow, was it good to be back.
I, again, leave the trail and head down to the waters' edge, drop my pack and find a nice spot to have something to eat. It's such a beautiful spot to sit and do pretty much nothing in. One thing that shocked me was just how windy and cold it was here. Considering to my east was at least another 400 meters of the Old Man in the way of the forecast winds however, this valley seemed to be channelling the wind from somewhere so while it was pretty, it's was pretty brisk too. Another hiker mentioned it to me and he said oddly, on the summit there wasn't a breath of wind so he was shocked at how bad it was in here. Very strange indeed. Mystery wind aside I took this opportunity to filter some water from the tarn ready for the night and continue to head up to the saddle of The Old Man and Dow Crag. This spot I can't wait to get back to.
It's incredible how much is still standing. Don't get me wrong I did just use the word "derelict" but not only can you see where every building was and indeed walk into them, but there was also a rail for the mine carts still on the ground, part of a tunnel those carts would've run through and two huge chasms where at one time the caves would've been but have since been blown up. It would be great to spend longer here as I noticed there was a small cave to the top right of the slate pile on the second chasm... what's in there?!?! One day i'll have to go and look. I reluctantly head back down to the track and continue on towards Goats Water, the very first tarn I ever saw and wow, was it good to be back.
I, again, leave the trail and head down to the waters' edge, drop my pack and find a nice spot to have something to eat. It's such a beautiful spot to sit and do pretty much nothing in. One thing that shocked me was just how windy and cold it was here. Considering to my east was at least another 400 meters of the Old Man in the way of the forecast winds however, this valley seemed to be channelling the wind from somewhere so while it was pretty, it's was pretty brisk too. Another hiker mentioned it to me and he said oddly, on the summit there wasn't a breath of wind so he was shocked at how bad it was in here. Very strange indeed. Mystery wind aside I took this opportunity to filter some water from the tarn ready for the night and continue to head up to the saddle of The Old Man and Dow Crag. This spot I can't wait to get back to.
This climb proved a challenge, not because the terrain is unstable as it's got lovely steps leading the way. It's just so steep and again I have half a house strapped to my back. Although my legs began to cramp with the strain I pushed on and I take the final step into paradise. The rolling mountains in the distance just scream adventure and yet again it's a point that puts things into perspective. What a privilege it is to be seeing this beauty and to have this playground to myself for 24 hours. I spent some time just looking at the view before continuing the final leg up the mountain. It wasn't long now until I would see my old friend I made a decade ago once again... plus I could finally get this rock I picked up on Walna Scar for the summit out of my pocket. I should've picked something lighter up. You live and learn don’t you.
Having returned myself back on the track after going the wrong way through gazing at that view I was soon on the ridgeline with the summit in the distance. I hiked to the opposite edge and from here you can see Low Water, part of the eastern mines, Coniston Water, Lake Windermere... in fact, you can see what feels like the entire southern lakes. It's spectacular up here and is only further improved when you get to the summit. The final yomp was here. As I got closer to the all so familiar trig I thought about the first time I was here. The wind was blowing quite a bit, the sun had practically set and the temperature began to plummet... all facts that hadn't even hit me until i'd reached the summit and the sense of achievement had settled and I had to find a pitch, fast. This time I stood at the summit for a while, taking in the surrounding views and then plodded around to the west side of the mountain, comparing several spots like I was looking at houses at an estate agents to find the perfect spot that would keep me out of the 30mph winds expected during the night. Then, I found it, the perfect pitch BUT I had to make a few evictions before pitching the tent. Sorry sheep!
Having returned myself back on the track after going the wrong way through gazing at that view I was soon on the ridgeline with the summit in the distance. I hiked to the opposite edge and from here you can see Low Water, part of the eastern mines, Coniston Water, Lake Windermere... in fact, you can see what feels like the entire southern lakes. It's spectacular up here and is only further improved when you get to the summit. The final yomp was here. As I got closer to the all so familiar trig I thought about the first time I was here. The wind was blowing quite a bit, the sun had practically set and the temperature began to plummet... all facts that hadn't even hit me until i'd reached the summit and the sense of achievement had settled and I had to find a pitch, fast. This time I stood at the summit for a while, taking in the surrounding views and then plodded around to the west side of the mountain, comparing several spots like I was looking at houses at an estate agents to find the perfect spot that would keep me out of the 30mph winds expected during the night. Then, I found it, the perfect pitch BUT I had to make a few evictions before pitching the tent. Sorry sheep!
The view from here was truly spectacular. I had an infinite view down to the south and no views of cities, towns, villages, nothing... well except for Blackpool in the very far distance at night but right now you can believe it was just you and the world. After I unpacked my gear and increased my layers I had a nice coffee and a couple of snacks just taking it all in. THEN it was steak time! Oh yes, 10 years ago I had my first summit steak and this was an occasion that deserved the same treatment. I was so ready for this bad boy I even brought some pepper rub to season it nicely and my GOD did it taste good. It looked awful, don't get me wrong, like i'd just plonked a brain in a pan and fried it up but get past that and you have a beautifully tender, medium rare piece of meat. Writing that I feel I must apologise to you vegans out there. Imagine your favourite meal, being hungry and having that meal be the most amazing thing you'd ever ate... it was that feeling. Tea down and it was now pitch black as we were in a new moon phase. The clouds began to part and the stars began to emerge so what better time to get the camera on the tripod and crack open a beer. Unfortunately, those easterly winds were blowing quite a bit now so every time I attempted to take a picture, my whole rig literally kept flying west. This wasn't working SO I simply placed the camera on the mountain itself, facing up and began taking photos. It was now I was about to get my best astronomical picture to date.
Not only hundreds but thousands of stars appeared on the display of the camera plus the faint trail of the milky way which absolutely dropped my jaw. What I could see what impressive but this was something else! There really were no words and added to this I saw a shooting star fly over Dow Crag and out to the ocean. What a night! I may not have got many pictures but what I did get absolutely made my night. Now it was time to put the tech away, open my final beer and just sit there absorbing everything as tomorrow i'd be back in the normal world. While windy it was bliss. Midnight was upon me and the beer was now gone. My bed was calling me and as I got settled in those once blissful winds turned nasty and began beating the side of my tent. This was going to be a rough night.
Not only hundreds but thousands of stars appeared on the display of the camera plus the faint trail of the milky way which absolutely dropped my jaw. What I could see what impressive but this was something else! There really were no words and added to this I saw a shooting star fly over Dow Crag and out to the ocean. What a night! I may not have got many pictures but what I did get absolutely made my night. Now it was time to put the tech away, open my final beer and just sit there absorbing everything as tomorrow i'd be back in the normal world. While windy it was bliss. Midnight was upon me and the beer was now gone. My bed was calling me and as I got settled in those once blissful winds turned nasty and began beating the side of my tent. This was going to be a rough night.
06:55. Dawn. What a night. We're still in one piece thankfully but one side of my tent is touching the inner and is wet with condensation. Something was wrong but I wasn't dealing with that until i'd got up, dressed, had breakfast and had a coffee in me. I'm 35 now, come on. Food, coffee, THEN deal with the derelict tent alright. It's early!... ahem...
........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Breakfast done and now feeling like i'm functioning I venture out to check out the damage. Thankfully the material is all in one piece however the wind took it's toll on one of the poles, causing it to bend slightly. The conditions up there were a lot worse than expected. The gusts were much stronger so i'm glad I found this pitch as anywhere else closer to the east could've caused that pole to break. Assessment made and a new tent pole purchase on the cards I packed my gear away, thanked my camping spot as usual and headed back to the summit one last time. It was up here I met an Australian bloke on a 3 month tour of the UK before heading back home to Melbourne... lucky sod. I said goodbye to the trig, wished our down under visitor all the best, took one last look at this amazing view for perhaps another 10 years and began my ascent down the mountain. It's not all sad though as we had more derelict mines to explore!
The sun was glorious today and the conditions turned from near freezing to very mild for the time of year... so much so I had to practically strip and get the shorts and t-shirt back on. Gloves... what was I thinking! At least I didn't still have my thermals on. I've made that mistake more than once before, never again haha. Having zigged and zagged my way down the trail I arrived at Low Water. Last time this was completely engulfed in dense fog. I knew there was water there but how much was impossible to tell. This was absolutely glorious with the pure blue skies reflecting in the clear, unspoiled water and all before it was getting busy so nice and peaceful. I continued down to the eastern side of the mine and found not only another huge chasm BUT to the left, away from the trail I found a couple of huge caves. The first was a fair drop down so I wasn't going in there but in sight was one of the old mine carts still there, dented, rusted, but still in one piece! Fascinating to say the least. I continued up to the larger cave and this was too good to pass up a visit into. Although it had too been blown up to prevent easy access, it was still a huge area that you can get into. Let me tell you, I really wanted to continue on into the cave but not only was there loads of loose slate being a potential safety risk but my poor pack was away at the very entrance of the area so I needed to get back to that. Also no one would know I was there should the worst happen so keeping to the route and ensuring I get home safe is a priority. It's definitely one to explore with another person though and a little research has revealed there's accessible shafts to explore... so that's one for the future adventures for sure! Shortly after this I saw another old mine cart tunnel and again, I just wanted to crawl through and see where it leads. I shot some footage of this just to show how far it goes and in getting up I bang my head against the tunnel ceiling. It hurt let me tell you BUT check out the footage. It's actually quite funny looking back. Even part of the slate came down i'd knocked my head that hard! What i'll do for these videos!
I continued down the track to the old mine office and works where you can see tracks, thick electrical lines and some of the old casing of the machinery. On the largest of the buildings I left a mark which I was questioning was it still there or not. Now facing the wall, it wasn't obvious which part it was on initially but I can confirm there's a few lines still faintly there, although soon it will be totally gone. Probably for the best as in hindsight I didn't like the fact i'd essentially vandalised this building slightly. It goes against leaving no trace and that's how things have been ever since that trip. Still, it's a nice bit of history for me to revisit. Having spent some time looking around these old buildings it dawned on me that this adventure would soon be over once again. I'm always the same. All I want to do is turn around and head back into the wild BUT heading home to my family and telling them about my adventures is just as exciting... plus I get to have a hot shower and sleep in a nice, comfy bed. The modern world does have it's plus points but planning my next adventure with nothing but the clothes on my back, a small amount of food, the means to purify water and a compass bearing will forever be my favourite thing to do in life.
Here's to the next Ruck... and another 10 years of adventure!
........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Breakfast done and now feeling like i'm functioning I venture out to check out the damage. Thankfully the material is all in one piece however the wind took it's toll on one of the poles, causing it to bend slightly. The conditions up there were a lot worse than expected. The gusts were much stronger so i'm glad I found this pitch as anywhere else closer to the east could've caused that pole to break. Assessment made and a new tent pole purchase on the cards I packed my gear away, thanked my camping spot as usual and headed back to the summit one last time. It was up here I met an Australian bloke on a 3 month tour of the UK before heading back home to Melbourne... lucky sod. I said goodbye to the trig, wished our down under visitor all the best, took one last look at this amazing view for perhaps another 10 years and began my ascent down the mountain. It's not all sad though as we had more derelict mines to explore!
The sun was glorious today and the conditions turned from near freezing to very mild for the time of year... so much so I had to practically strip and get the shorts and t-shirt back on. Gloves... what was I thinking! At least I didn't still have my thermals on. I've made that mistake more than once before, never again haha. Having zigged and zagged my way down the trail I arrived at Low Water. Last time this was completely engulfed in dense fog. I knew there was water there but how much was impossible to tell. This was absolutely glorious with the pure blue skies reflecting in the clear, unspoiled water and all before it was getting busy so nice and peaceful. I continued down to the eastern side of the mine and found not only another huge chasm BUT to the left, away from the trail I found a couple of huge caves. The first was a fair drop down so I wasn't going in there but in sight was one of the old mine carts still there, dented, rusted, but still in one piece! Fascinating to say the least. I continued up to the larger cave and this was too good to pass up a visit into. Although it had too been blown up to prevent easy access, it was still a huge area that you can get into. Let me tell you, I really wanted to continue on into the cave but not only was there loads of loose slate being a potential safety risk but my poor pack was away at the very entrance of the area so I needed to get back to that. Also no one would know I was there should the worst happen so keeping to the route and ensuring I get home safe is a priority. It's definitely one to explore with another person though and a little research has revealed there's accessible shafts to explore... so that's one for the future adventures for sure! Shortly after this I saw another old mine cart tunnel and again, I just wanted to crawl through and see where it leads. I shot some footage of this just to show how far it goes and in getting up I bang my head against the tunnel ceiling. It hurt let me tell you BUT check out the footage. It's actually quite funny looking back. Even part of the slate came down i'd knocked my head that hard! What i'll do for these videos!
I continued down the track to the old mine office and works where you can see tracks, thick electrical lines and some of the old casing of the machinery. On the largest of the buildings I left a mark which I was questioning was it still there or not. Now facing the wall, it wasn't obvious which part it was on initially but I can confirm there's a few lines still faintly there, although soon it will be totally gone. Probably for the best as in hindsight I didn't like the fact i'd essentially vandalised this building slightly. It goes against leaving no trace and that's how things have been ever since that trip. Still, it's a nice bit of history for me to revisit. Having spent some time looking around these old buildings it dawned on me that this adventure would soon be over once again. I'm always the same. All I want to do is turn around and head back into the wild BUT heading home to my family and telling them about my adventures is just as exciting... plus I get to have a hot shower and sleep in a nice, comfy bed. The modern world does have it's plus points but planning my next adventure with nothing but the clothes on my back, a small amount of food, the means to purify water and a compass bearing will forever be my favourite thing to do in life.
Here's to the next Ruck... and another 10 years of adventure!
